To say that Hood By Air’s presentation at Pier 60 was a brilliant collection would be an understatement.
The general at the helm of this revolution, Shayne Oliver, offered an all out androgynous fashion orgy of skirt-pants, morphed graphics, masterlock accessories, and weave halos set to tribal beats, barking dogs, and atmospheric smog—all culminating with a five-minute shirtless slam dance that harnessed an incredible amount of energy and spirit.
Tribal rhythms blanketed a post-apocalyptic ambiance to usher in the first looks. All-over fast zips, breakaway hardware and active vent inserts meant game on, anywhere, anytime.
Heavy leather bomber jackets with Hell-raiser grommet landscapes charged down the smoky runway. Printed Logomania of previous seasons were traded for an embossed detail of the iconic All-Caps-Helvetica “HBA”, worn like a badge of honor. Suede flair encompassed billowed pants and western coats paid homage to a 70s-disco-cum-90s-raver. Detailed piping along the spine resembled an exo-skeletal droid, and the collection took a sharp turn into futurism with minimalist Velcro, architectural cuts and mid-riff exposing crop tops ambiguous to any sex.
SFX makeup turned the youthful faces into horror film victims. In the finale, tattooed, turnt-up teens danced hypnotically like whirling dervishes from Brooklyn’s murkiest corners. Their unclasped braces and spliced blonde weaves took flight and fluttered on every pirouette, causing the crowd—cult icons such as singer Brooke Candy, designer Nicola Formichetti, artist Jeanette Hayes and Spring Breakers’ own ATL Twins—to roar with praise.
Photography by Andrew Boyle
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